It took me a full two years before I decided to cross the
Yangon river again by ferry. This time I stopped in Dala township. I was
accompanied by a local friend. I was planning to visit "Chu Chu", a
recycling enterprise which was founded in 2013 through a project supported by
the European Union. We also took advantage of the nice weather (a dry spell
during the rainy season) to discover the alleys of Dala while watching the
locals' life.
The same hustle and bustle which I remember from my previous
visit welcomed us at the Dala jetty. This time I slipped away with a resolute
"Jezu be" which means "Thanks" from the pushy
"guides" who were looking for possible clients. All around me people
were rushing to get out of the ferry terminal and to set about their daily errands.
Some people were carrying large bundles containing things they probably do not
find in their villages on the Irrawaddy delta. Many people are commuting
between Dala and Yangon for work. The river is busy with ferries and small
boats going back and forth. Some locals in Dala are modest businessmen who resell
stuff bought from Yangon's markets in
their small shops, located in the alleys of this township.
If you decide to make Dala your main visit of the day my advice is
to rent a trishaw. Luckily, both me and my friend managed to squeeze in one. Should
you negotiate the already reasonable price offered by the driver when you know
it is his body who powers the vehicle? The expanded bicycle drives smoothly on
the newly laid pavement. There are only a handful of proper streets in Dala so
you often have the feeling you are in the countryside. Some consider Dala a
suburb of Yangon. It might well become a suburb but not before the promised
bridge between Yangon's downtown and
Dala will be finally built. According to the latest news the construction will start
in 2017.
Every local knows Chu Chu's location in Dala. They also know
that Chu Chu recycles plastic. And in Myanmar plastic is everywhere. In other
words the skilful artisans literally collect their raw material on their
doorstep. Apart from this they regularly visit markets and return with huge bags
full of discarded plastic bags and plastic instant coffee wraps. The shop
increased in popularity after successfully selling their artifacts in the
Pomelo shop in Yangon. They were trained by talented designers, and they
continue to work with some of them improving their products and looking for new
ideas. Since the beginning of the year they started to sell from their workshop
in Dala.
The project developed nicely and currently has many local families involved in the business.
Most of the people work from home. They bring back woven plastic bags, book
covers, woven bins made out of instant coffee wraps and different baskets. They
earn a fair living in a place where employment is scarce. Many managed to pay
back their debts. They meet regularly at the workshop to discuss the new
designs, to deliver the products and to receive new training. The producers
recently started to process the rubber from the many broken tires that lie around.
I studied the skilfully crafted belts, iPad covers, wallets and even carpets. My
local friend was amazed.
After a short visit to the small shop we continued our
trishaw excursion driving slowly on the sleepy alleys. It was almost noon and it
was an unexpectedly hot day. However, on the both sides of the paved alley you
could notice stagnant water mixed with garbage. There is no sewage system in
Dala and that is why the houses are built on stilts with a narrow bamboo bridge
to take you inside the house. During the monsoon season rain water collects all
around the houses. On the same street you notice a mix of bamboo and concrete
houses depending on one's wealth. Some plots of lands are fenced with barbed
wire. "The rich people started to buy land in Dala. They fence it and wait
for proper investors to come in a few years. The price of land has increased so
much over the last years", complained our trishaw driver.
I asked the driver to stop when I noticed a young boy
writing in a book while lying on a wooden platform above the water and the
garbage. "Was he doing his homework?", I wondered. We spoke with his
mother who was boiling a huge amount of rice over a charcoal stove. The woman
was 44 years old and she had seven children. In a way she felt the need to
explain that the local services will start a big cleaning operation the next
day. In our morning excursion we only saw a proper bin on one of the streets
and at some point two women garbage collectors pushing around another one.
Nevertheless the population should be sensitised by the local authorities about the dangers of living surrounded by garbage.
We saw many children playing in the streets and so we found
out that it was a teachers' training day in Dala. The trishaw driver was happy
because he felt that this is an improvement. The teachers receive training and
additionally the school is now free of charge until the 8th grade.
We finished our trip by paying a visit to our trishaw driver's
house upon my request. He took us to the end of the town from where the green paddy
fields started to grow. Our eyes rested on the bright green fields for a while.
He stopped the bicycle and asked us to accompany him. We took a short walk on a
dry dirt-path towards two rows of bamboo houses. His house was one amongst these
many improvised shelters. Children were busy fetching water from a pump not far
away. I noticed two boys pumping and filling up their plastic canisters and
buckets. The water was yellow. It was Government water. "Do they drink
this water?", we wondered. "No, it is only for cooking" the
trishaw driver explained. "For drinking we take water from a pond which
fills up with rain water". On our way back to the ferry he showed us the pond
which was covered by water lilies. Probably not every local from Dala uses the
same wells but for me these two water sources looked unsafe.
I saw this kind of bamboo houses in the outskirts of Yangon
when driving to the Ngwe Saung beach. The constructions in Dala are improvised
and not permanent. The land does not belong to the people. They pay a yearly
rent to a well-off local but still they are afraid that one day they will be
ordered to move in case an investment opportunity arises. The yearly rent is
around MMK360,000.
Behind every poor family lies a sad story like the ones I
read in the "On the Road to Mandalay"
book written by Mya Than Tint. In this particular case the parents of our, by
now, guide divorced many years ago and sold the house they had in Dala.
Ironically they now live next to each other in two separate bamboo houses. The
many brothers and sisters live close to each other with some sharing a house. Ten
people, adults and children, were living in two small rooms which formed the
house of our driver.
Our driver is 38 years old, has three children, was
schooled only two years (as the eldest brother he needed to work to support his
family after the divorce of his parents), rents a trishaw every day for which
he pays daily MMK 1,000 to the trishaw owner and earns an average of MMK 6,000 per
day.
Coming back at the busy ferry terminal and seeing the many
hopeful trishaw drivers waiting for customers I could not but ask myself how
many are in the same situation as the man I left behind.
If you are an
inquisitive tourist, you notice things and you start to wonder. You have questions
which need answers. As a foreigner, living in Myanmar for some time now, when
making such a visit I push for answers and I try to understand how society functions. Often it is difficult. As a tourist you will most probably look
around, wonder and leave Dala remembering it as a township frozen in time, with
dirty dusty alleys, friendly locals, a
great recycling initiative and a Pagoda with a mummified monk in a glass case.
I left wondering about the future of these people and especially about the
hardships the children of Dala must endure every day. Yet they were happy,
smiling, playing, chasing each other and greeting you with a loud
"Hello!". They've never known better. I will remember this my entire life.
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