After a few months in
the city, I decided to put together an itinerary for those who plan to visit
Yangon any time soon. I also wrote down a few useful tips.
You may decide not to
hire a guide when visiting Yangon because:
- More and more information and itineraries are available online or in travel guides;
- The city is safe;
- There are plenty of taxis available at an affordable price to take you from one place to another;
- You want to save some money!
So why not discover the city by yourself? Take your travel guide with you for detailed information on each of the sightseeing I propose below.
Before you leave your
hotel or place of stay:
- take a map of the city, a hat and an umbrella (for rain or sun), flip-flops (in pagodas you have to leave your shoes at the entrance), sunscreen and make sure you have your passport (some museums will ask for it) and money (both USD and local currency) with you;
- wear appropriate clothes so that you can enter pagodas (some rent longyi skirts in case of need) and take a plastic bag for your shoes (especially for the Shwedagon Pagoda, shoes need to be removed so it is better to put them in your bag);
- take a scarf to protect you against the air conditioning in some place;
- book your dinners in the morning to make sure you will get a nice table and note on a piece of paper the addresses for the day.
If you have more than
three days you could include a visit to the National Races Museum (more
information here), go to the Nagar
Glass Factory (details here) or take the
circular train for a three hours ride around the city. For the ones who would
like to visit the other side of the Yangon river go to the pottery workshops in
the Twante village (see my previous post here).
One of your visiting
days falls on a Friday? Relax before dinner at the terrace of the Sailing Club (132, Inya Road) where you
will enjoy a cold drink, listen to live music and enjoy the lake when the sun sets. The club is open for
non-members only on Friday evenings.
Day 1
Morning
National Museum will be the first place to visit so that you can learn more
about the history and culture of the country. Details here.
After not more than
two hours of immersing yourself into the country's rich history, take a taxi to
downtown for a massage at the Genky Physiotherapy Clinic. Read my post
and note down the address here.
Lunch
Try the Asian kitchen
at the Green Gallery (number
58 on the 52nd Street, lower block, Botahtaung Township) in downtown Yangon.
The restaurant is a very popular place with both locals and expats and it is
run by a Myanmar lady who lived and worked in Thailand where she learned the
Thai authentic cuisine.
After lunch, take
a stroll and mix with the locals on the crowded streets of downtown Yangon. You
will return here on your last day for the Chinese quarter and the Bogyoke
market but for the moment just look around a few minutes so that you get a
glimpse of the daily life of locals. Buy some fruits from the street sellers.
Afternoon
It is time now to
visit the Shwedagon Pagoda, one
of the most famous pagodas of South East Asia. In the late afternoon the
sun is less intense and the light will help you have some beautiful pictures of
the pagoda especially when the sun is setting. Take your time to relax by
watching life unfold around the pagodas, from pick-nicks to prayers and
chanting. You have free wireless access so take advantage of that to send a
picture with the main stupa, while the sun is setting down, to your loved ones.
You may also hire one of the guides from the various entrances of the pagoda
and find out more about your astrological sign.
Dinner
It is time to taste
the meals prepared by the ShweSaBwe Restaurant
staff (20 Malikha Street, Mayangone Township). This is a social enterprise with
young cooks and waiters from disadvantaged backgrounds who are taught how to
cook and serve in a quality restaurant. After successfully completing all the
classes they are assisted to get hired in one of the Yangon hotels or
restaurants. Some of them become teachers for the new students arriving. The
project was started in 2011 by François Stoupan. Ask for a table in the garden
to enjoy the beautiful setting between the green bamboo and the colorful
plants. You can choose between a three or a two course meal.
If you would like to
go for a late drink try the open-air terrace at the Vista Bar (168,
Shwegondaing St, Bahan Township, opens at 6pm) with beautiful views of the
Shwedagon Pagoda. The terrace is not very big so places are limited. In case
you are told at the entrance that there are no seats available try still go up
just to admire the view. You will definitely find a place at the bar.
Day II
Morning
If you manage to wake
up early head out to a local market like the one in Hledan. It is a
unique experience! The Hledan Market is situated at the end of
University avenue, close to Pyay road and Inya lake. Every taxi driver knows
the address. Leave your hotel around 7.45 so you will be not stuck in the
morning traffic. Stay until around 9.00 so that you will have a quick ride to
the Gems Museum which is your next stop.
But if you are less
interested in the local food, smells, colours and curiosities of an Asian
market head straight to the Gems Museum. You will learn interesting
facts about the precious stones of Myanmar which is most known for its ruby,
jade and sapphire. Inside the building you will find gems shops in case you
were planning to buy something. Do not forget to negotiate the price. There are
plenty of shops in Bogyoke Market as well. I would advise to buy from the Gems
Museum's shops as the quality is certified by the license the shops receive to
be allowed to sell inside the building. Read more here.
Lunch
Try the traditional
Myanmar kitchen by eating at the Mother’s
handmade restaurant (25/27 New University Avenue, Bahan Township). In a
very friendly atmosphere you get to choose the curries, the dried or grilled
fish, the prawns and the vegetables from a counter; you will get them served at
your table together with a wide range of sauces/dips and side dishes.
Afternoon
Visit the reclining
Buddha at the ChaukHtatGyi Pagoda
in the Tamwe Township. You can admire there the 65m long reclining
Buddha.
In the afternoon I
would advise you to relax at a Thai massage center or take a swim in one of the
hotels. I would recommend Hotel Chatrium for a nice swim and gym
(wireless, towels, water, shower and soap are provided in the 20 USD entrance
fee) and Inya Day Spa
for a nice massage.
Alternatively, if you
still feel very active visit the National Races Museum which closes at
5pm!
Dinner
Reserve a table at
the House of Memories (290, U Wizara Road, Kamaryut Township),
an old colonial building which sheltered the Burma Independence Army during the
Independence war and General Aung San's office was in one of the rooms
upstairs. It is a beautiful colonial building with traditional cuisine. My favourite
starter is the eggplant salad. But all plates are delicious there.
Day III
Morning
This morning you will
walk and admire the old-style colonial buildings of downtown Yangon. I
have some pictures of them here. You should take a
map and follow this proposed itinerary: start your tour at the city hall, close
to Sule Pagosa. Cross the Maha Bandula Garden and on your left hand-side you
will notice already the red bricks of the High Court building. You walk down
then to the Merchant’s street which will come on your left and you advance on it until you
reach the Pansodan street and you walk on it (left direction) until you reach
the Strand Avenue. Admire the buildings on the way there, some renovated and
some with black stains and run down hopefully to be renovated soon. Once on
the Strand Avenue try to cross the road and head to the left to see the Strand
hotel building. Maybe the traffic is too heavy for you to safely
cross the street.
Walk then to the Strand hotel where you will get a well-deserved coffee, tea
or fresh juice. Enjoy and do not forget your scarf. It is quite cold inside from
the aircon! Before you leave make sure you visit the art gallery inside at the
back of the lobby. It is beautiful but pricey!
If you still have the
strength to walk head to the Secretariat building on Theinphyu Road (you could take a look at it on the first day when at the Genky massage; it is opposite the street). Otherwise
ask a taxi to drive you around the building to admire the impressive structure
which was the former Ministers’ building. General Aung San was assassinated in
this building in 1947. There are plans to open a museum there once the building
will be renovated.
Lunch
Take a taxi to 999
Shan Noodle Shop (34 street, middle block, downtown). The restaurant is a must, in my opinion. A cosy little restaurant of
which I wrote here. Try the Shan sticky
noodles served as a soup or a main dish (which I prefer).
Afternoon
This is your last day
and it is time to do some shopping. The best place to do this is still the Bogyoke
Market where you will find traditional clothing like longyi, the Myanmar
silk scarfs from Inle Lake, wooden products, traditional painted paper
umbrellas, gems, etc.
You can walk to
Bogyoke Market from the 999 Shan Noodle Shop. Use your map! On your way to the
market you can stop for a coffee at the Shangri-la hotel (the former Traders
hotel as it is still known). You will be impressed by the colonial setting
inside.
(Alternative for
shopping, especially for buying souvenirs for the loved ones back home and
where you can pay by Mastercard (total above 50USD): Pomelo (89 Theiphyu Road, close to Monsoon Restaurant, downtown). It is opened until late in the evening, 9 p.m.).
Dinner
I propose you choose from three
dinner options for the last evening in Yangon. All three of them are
unforgettable.
The very romantic and
pricy one is having dinner at the Governor's residence. This colonial
building, which was the residence of the British Governor during colonial rule is
a hotel with a very elegant restaurant. The food is good and pricy but the
location only makes up for it.
The second choice
is the Shwe Kaung Hot Pot restaurant,
popular amongst locals. You get a spicy and a non spicy soup in which you can put
different raw ingredients from vegetables to fish and organs (!). You choose what
you like from big refrigerators. Read more about this interesting dinner concept
here.
For the most daring and curious ones there are the street barbeques in the Chinese
quarter of the 19th street. There are many restaurants and bars serving
fresh barbeques from meat to fish and seafood. The food is fresh as they are
quite popular. You will see a lot of young tourists enjoying the meat skewers
and seafood plates while drinking a Myanmar beer.
END
And, in the end, do
not be surprised:
- when landing to be greeted by
large smiles with rotten red teeth due to the betel chewing;
- to notice and step into the red
saliva that has been spat out by the betel chewing men!
- to possibly see rats in downtown;
- to notice dogs at every corner.
Most of them do not even stare at you; the friendly
attitude is due to the fact that most locals feed the animals and treat
them well;
- to see all kind of behavior in
pubic like loudly clearing the throat, spitting or being stared at.
Did I forget
something? Probably yes, but I let you discover the rest for yourself!!!
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